Ciales

One of the best climbing areas in Puerto Rico due to its location and the rock quality it possesses. This area is located on private land, but climbers have been coming here for many years now and have developed good relations with the residents and locals. It sits on top of a mountain making it very much exposed to the sun and rain, so best time to climb here is after 12pm when the sun goes over the “mogote” (limestone cliff). This area is home to some 30 climbing routes, with grades ranging from 5.6 to 5.13c

 

Equipment necessary: 60m rope / 15 quick draws /
                                      basic trad rack for mixed routes
Rock type: limestone

Routes: mostly vertical routes; chains on most anchors; well placed bolts; long one pitch routes with sustained climbing; pockets, sidepulls, crimps and some cracks; 5.6 to 5.13c

Must Do’s:

  • Blanca Nieves (5.7)
  • Puerto Rico lo hace mejor (5.10a)
  • Chupa Cabras (5.10b)
  • Pompi Pompi (5.11b)
  • El Pitcher (5.12a)
  • Trago Amargo en la Roca (5.11d / 12a)

Directions: Take road 22 going west if driving from San Juan (about 45 minutes), take exit to Ciales. Go straight for a couple of miles until you reach Farmacia Expreso on your right side. Take a right and go straight, at the end make a left and go straight past a bridge (old railroad bridge). After passing bridge take second road to your right. Go up until you see a basketball court to your left and park in front of it, preferably on other side of the road on the grass. Walk up towards cliffs using jeep trail, follow trail all the way up to the climbing area.

Camping: possible if you find a good spot at the base of the cliff; at your own risk

Dangers: bee and wasp hives; park on the grass, do not obstruct the road; exposure to sun and rain

 

CIALES CLIMBING GUIDE

Climbing Areas:

Bayamon 1 Bayamon 2 Relincho, Juana Díaz Rosario, San German